Thursday, November 14, 2013
Charleston SC
Charleston is one of our most favorite places to visit; it is so vibrant and
busy with tourism as one of its biggest revenue generators, as well it should
be - it has such a beautiful setting, lots of history and, we get to visit with
our friends Eva and Bernie.
We checked into what was arguably the best RV camp of our three year
trip "James Island County Park" – since having had www.rvparkreviews.com
recommended to him last year and now that we are almost finished our odyssey Tom
has selected some great parks to stay at. As we drive in – almost a mile to the
check-in registration – we pass through Christmas lights all along the roadway.
That weekend marked the beginning of the annual "Festival of Lights" what
luck? Adele pulls her bike off the back of the RV and heads off for a cycle around
the many paths in the park passing workers busy putting the finishing touches
to their designs.
The weather forecast for the next day was for 20% rain so we set the
alarm to take the 9am (yes 9am!) shuttle bus to the Charleston Visitor Center,
as we were walking around town we happened across the "Dixie Supply Bakery
and Café” off the beaten track on State Street. There was a long line of people
waiting to order but as the weather was getting cold and we were hungry we decided
to wait our turn. As we were discussing what we would order the owner Allen
Holmes heard our “accents” and came over to chat with us. His family history
fascinated us; the Holmes have been in America since the 1600’s, Allen knew
that they came in someplace up north and ended up in Charleston in 1698. The Café is situated about 100 feet
from the original family business location, first called Holmes & Calder
Leadworks, then William E. Holmes Paint Company and eventually Dixie Supply
Hardware. There was a photograph of Allen’s father and his brother outside the
hardware store, the back door to the hardware store is now the back door to the
café. Allen’s grandfather opened the Holmes
& Calder Leadworks. Allen
and his wife Kris owned Terrible Tom's Bakery & Café in the historic
Charleston's City Market for nine years then in 1993 they sold the bakery and
traveled throughout Europe and all around the United States until July 2007. Then
it was time to return home to Charleston and the Dixie Supply Bakery & Café
was born. Later on in the day Tom was asked by two ladies if he knew where
the café was located and he was delighted to assist them; seemingly it’s a
famous tourist spot.
Afterwards we toured the Edmondston-Alston House on the Battery which
was built in 1825 by Edmondston; after the panic of 1837 (there was a
depression in the 1820s and 1830s) he had to sell the house. Charles Alston who
hailed from one of the successful rice plantation dynasties bought the house;
his descendants still own and live in the house. By the time the tour ended the
20% rain had turned to 100% drizzle accompanied by a bitterly cold wind, so after
a long and cold wait for the free bus that transports tourists around Charleston
we returned to take the park shuttle back to RamblingRover.
That night we stayed with Eva and Bernie so that we could be up early the
following day to start on the very full day they had planned. The sun was shining
and it was hot outside as we drove to a bakery where we had the most delicious
chocolate croissants for breakfast. Afterwards we walked across the new Arthur
Ravenel Jr. suspension bridge and then drove out of town to
see the Angel Oak Tree; a 2000 year-old oak tree which is enormous and quite
impossible to describe its size, turns and twists of its branches - the trunk
tells a story by itself. We then went to the Charleston County Fair where we
just walked around trying to keep out of the hot sun. Rabbits and chickens were
mostly the animals being shown, there were lots of rides and even more food
stalls; we didn't stay long.
That evening James Island County Park was hosting a 2mile run/walk
preview through the holiday lights so having earlier secured tickets for the
four of us we bought dinner on our way back to the park and dined in the RV. At
dusk 6.30 we joined several hundreds of people in the park and walked the 2
miles around the park marveling at the massive Festival of Lights – well over
700 displays and more than 2 million lights - it was spectacular and very
enjoyable. From there we went to the cinema to see the Rolling Stones “Sweet
Summer Sun” concert filmed in London’s Hyde Park London in the summer; one long
enjoyable day for 4 seniors!
When we returned to the park even the Christmas Lights had been turned
off! Wednesday, November 13, 2013
Tuesday, November 12, 2013
Charlotte Motor Speedway, Concord NC and Columbia SC
Once again Tom surprised Adele with his choice of RV Park…at the Charlotte
Motor Speedway in Concord, North Carolina. Adele could not believe it we were right
in the middle of things; Drag Car Track in front of us, Dirt Track off to the
side of the same complex and the absolutely huge NASCAR stadium just across the
road. On arrival we learned from neighbors that the only reason we could get a
reservation was that there was no racing that week, in fact the couple were
real NASCAR fans and regular visitors from Illinois yet could not remain on for
the following weeks racing as they were too late reserving; they did find a
nearby RV Park. Most definitely the largest RV Park we’ve stayed at; they are set
up to cater for big numbers and the facilities were excellent. Concord has lots
of shops and restaurants so we went shopping and got the best deal ever in the
Olive Garden; we ate two dinners and brought two dinners home all for $12.99
each.
We visited Columbia the Capitol City of South Carolina. Not a big city but it certainly is striving to gentrify the downtown area; it’s a very safe place to walk around. The Capitol building is in the center of town with all roads radiating from it; the Capitol is also the center of a very nice historical district which includes one of its old railway stations (in the time of segregation this was the whites only railway station) the platform is about a half a mile long and is now populated with pubs and eateries. We had a very good lunch in the refurbished station house, in its heyday Columbia had three different railway lines passing through it. One of its major industries is the historical Adluh Flour – Allen Brothers Milling Company which has been in continuous operation since 1900.
We spent Halloween
at the Speedway RV Park where Adele displayed her witch on the dashboard
together with a few other new Halloween purchases; our neighbors got the prize as
they had far more decorations. While talking to them we discovered that there
was nothing in the area 15 years ago; amazing the growth that the NASCAR
Stadium has spurred. As we had spent the better part of a day visiting and
exploring the historic Reed Gold mine – believe it or not the first gold rush
in North America was in North Carolina, we did not see Charlotte other than as
we passed by on our way to Columbia.
Lexington, South
Carolina was where we had reserved an RV site for a few nights this turned out
another surprise when after breakfast as we were doing our chores we discovered
a Flea Market in full swing on the neighboring property; we walked through some
trees and had an enjoyable morning walking through massive warehouses while browsing
hundreds of stalls. On almost every corner it seemed that those stalls were selling
the new steam-inhaler cigarettes and of course we stopped and watched a demo. One
can have all sorts of flavors, lilac, peppermint, citrus more like a perfume
counter than a smoker’s paradise. Now you may wonder who puffs on these things as
it is certainly not smoking as we know it; yet we did see a fisherman puffing
on one as he cast his line into the river, but then he also had pink and purple
hair.We visited Columbia the Capitol City of South Carolina. Not a big city but it certainly is striving to gentrify the downtown area; it’s a very safe place to walk around. The Capitol building is in the center of town with all roads radiating from it; the Capitol is also the center of a very nice historical district which includes one of its old railway stations (in the time of segregation this was the whites only railway station) the platform is about a half a mile long and is now populated with pubs and eateries. We had a very good lunch in the refurbished station house, in its heyday Columbia had three different railway lines passing through it. One of its major industries is the historical Adluh Flour – Allen Brothers Milling Company which has been in continuous operation since 1900.
Friday, November 8, 2013
Whirligigs
Adele had her mind set on seeing these Whirligigs ever since her California
British friends gave her a present of an “Off the beaten path” book. On our way
north in June we missed seeing them due to a communications snafu. After
researching the Lucama, North Carolina area for an RV Park Tom fixed on Wilson
and what a great selection that turned out to be.
The morning
after we arrived we headed into Wilson to visit the Visitors Center to obtain
more information on where to find Lucama and the whirligigs. As our luck would
once more have it the town of Wilson was busy setting up the Vollis Simpson
Whirligig Park (Mr. Simpson died in June of this year in his mid-nineties) for
a weekend " whirligig festival " event; over we trotted and watched workmen
busily hanging pieces onto an enormous whirligig, there were four other whirligigs
already erected with another sixteen to follow. A multimillion dollar project,
the park will be landscaped to become the focal point of the town. The
whirligigs are in different sizes with some as high as street lamps with
enormous additions, sometimes as wide as 25ft hanging vertically and
horizontally from them; when the wind blows the different components turn in opposite
directions. At the park we learned that a refurbishment facility was a couple
of blocks away so we walked over and started chatting to a gentleman named Mel
who invited us in and gave us a personal grand tour explaining how difficult it
was, due to age and corrosion, to dismantle the whirligigs, the challenge of
sourcing the correct paint and how they replaced some very rusty moving pieces
with newly fabricated pieces. He had photos of what the whirligigs looked like
when Vollis Simpson originally made them. The town is also opening a museum to
display and archive the smaller pieces that are beyond repair.
The next day
we drove out to Lucama a farming community about 15 miles from Wilson and where
Vollis Simpson had his home and workshop. On arrival at the farm we parked beside
a gate to a field where four geese set up an almighty racket – particularly the
male, the other three were female. They made so much noise that their owner
came by; he happened to be Michael Simpson one of Vollis’ sons. He told us some
interesting anecdotes about his Dad Vollis who went to his workshop every day
right up to a few weeks before he passed. The field the geese were in had
several enormous Whirligigs (Vollis called them Windmills) as Michael was
feeding the geese he invited us to admire them and then gave us a tour of the
workshop; it was like a scrap metal barn full of all sorts of knick-knacks,
small, big and gigantic, there were lots of little Whirligigs dotted around on every
surface. Vollis made these when he got too old to climb up the enormous poles; this
was his pastime hobby, to make his living Vollis farmed and moved houses and
barns.
Four
whirligigs commissioned from him for the Atlanta Olympics are still on display
in Atlanta with other pieces in Baltimore, Raleigh and Greensboro. The US Embassy
in Moscow has a whirligig in its lobby.
This was a
very enjoyable stop made all the more so as everyone was so welcoming.Thursday, November 7, 2013
Monday, November 4, 2013
Pam and Charlie's near Washington DC
Once again we parked RamblingRover and BlueBug in our friends driveway while we slept
indoors in a welcome warm bed on these cold nights; the days are warm but cold
weather is on its way. We were lucky to meet up with Pam and Charlie as their
plan was to be visiting family in Colorado but the devastating storms that hit Colorado
and nearby states including our adopted state South Dakota in mid-October prevented
them traveling. This allowed them watch all the politicians misbehave as they
ignore the people they’re elected to “serve” and cause the government to shut
down. Because of the shutdown we thought that we would be bypassing Washington however
a few days before our planned visit all was back to Washington normal – mayhem,
confusion, frustration as the problem was “kicked down the road”. In spite of
all this we found that it was business as usual in a calm Washington.
Wednesday we took
the Metro into Washington to spend time around the White House area; we started
at the White House visitor center where we watched a movie of its history
presented by several First Ladies, President Obama also said a few words also. Afterwards
we took a short Park Ranger narrated tour – the White House is a National Park
tour and saw one of the many permanent Christmas trees in Lafayette Park. On
the roof of the White House we could see heavily armed agents standing guard.
Later on our walk-about around the back where dignitaries arrive under a portico
we asked a uniformed Secret Service Agent for directions and having spotted Scotland
on his name tag we , it turns out he was born in Scotland to American parents;
an agents country of birth is part of their ID. Protesting seems a way of life
in Washington and the White House environs, on the day we visited there was a
protest by a group of Pakistani people; we learned later that the Pakistani Prime
Minister was in town.
We found a
great spot for lunch called "Potbelly Café" awesome sandwiches! It
was so busy that we had to cross the road to Starbucks for a coffee and a
table. After lunch on our way to the Air and Space Museum the protesters had
been moved back a block being filmed and interviewed by a Pakistani TV team. Adele wanted to see the Drones that are
causing so much controversy in Pakistan and other parts of the world in the Air
and Space Museum; first we went to the IMAX cinema and heard Whoopi Goldberg narrate
a documentary about the Universe, truth to tell we needed to sit down. At the
end of the day we took the Metro back to Pam and Charlie’s; no senior
concessions here, the fare was $10.00 return.
Thursday was
a really cold day so we spent the day at the National Geographic Headquarters
viewing an excellent exhibition of photographs; again we had lunch in
Potbelly's and later on afternoon coffee in Starbucks.
On
Friday Tom and
Charlie headed off in RamblingRover while Pam and Adele traveled in Pam’s car
to Lake Anna to spend the weekend at their lake house and earn our keep by
raking leaves. However, when all four of us arrived we decided to go for a lake
trip in their boat; the sun was shining, but the weather was cold, so we
wrapped up well under blankets. We had a lovely view of Lake Anna from the
water – the highlight was that Tom spotted a Bald Eagle landing on a tree
within 100 yards of us – spectacular! Lake Anna was created by flooding the
area to provide cooling water to the nearby nuclear power station. We raked
leaves to warm up when we got back. Saturday all four of us were serious about leaf
raking but as everyone knows nature wins every time.
On
Sunday we went to nearby
Chancellorsville an 1863 Civil War battleground. We watched an excellent movie
in the visitor’s center where we picked up a self-guided tour map to view
different individual skirmish areas. Chancellorsville is where Confederate General
Robert E Lee with a total of 64,000 troops defeated the Federal General Hooker
who had 134,000 troops. This is also where Confederate General “Stonewall”
Jackson was shot by his own troops, what we now call friendly fire; his arm was
amputated and is buried locally. General Jackson died of pneumonia 10 days
later and is buried in Lexington, VA. We managed to view 8 of the 10 highlights
on the map at which stage we felt we were experts on General Lee's strategic
and tactical battle plans. Without “his right-hand man General Jackson” General
Lee marched on to Gettysburg and the rest is history!
Saturday, November 2, 2013
Philadelphia, PA
The fall
colors were still spectacular, although we thought that maybe the season might
be near its end, as we made our way from Allentown to Philadelphia to visit our
friends Carole and Fred. Our timing could not have been better - Fred had both
his knees replaced two weeks earlier. Having parked the RV on their driveway we
joined Carole in visiting Fred at his rehabilitation hospital; he was due home
the following day.
Pennsylvania is
a very big state with a shore line on Lake Erie and access to the Atlantic by
way of the Delaware River. The states founder William Penn’s father was a
friend of King Charles 2nd; the younger Penn became a Quaker much to the King’s
displeasure and was summarily sent to the colonies to sort himself out – Penn’s
Charter pointed the way for freedom of religion among other things in the US
today. Pennsylvania and America certainly benefited from his banishment. Interestingly,
the name Pennsylvania means Penn's woods.
While Carole
dealt with bringing Fred home we took the Metro into Philadelphia for which the
senior fare was $1, the adult fare is $7 so being a senior has some advantages.
Two years ago when we last visited the 99percenters were camping around the
City Hall which prevented us taking a tour as there was no access. We got off
at Reading Market a wonderful fresh food market with its many Amish produce stands
and wonderful home cooked food. From there we walked around the city which
was very busy hosting the International Police Chiefs Conference. It was not
that we were lost, we just did not know where the entrance to the Metro was so
we asked a policeman and ended up being escorted by him to the entrance; of
course we got a few funny looks from passersby who must have been wondering
where the handcuffs were. When we got back to Carole and Fred's we found him
walking slowly up and down the hallway on his walking frame; he was in great
pain but not complaining as he is determined to get well as quickly as he can.
Sunday was spent relaxing and marveling at
the various pieces of equipment Fred had been given to help him dress;
different contraptions for socks and shoes all very innovative and amazing.
That evening their son Steve joined us for dinner and entertained us all with his
stories.
On
Monday we headed once
again for the city center stopping first at Reading Market for coffee and
muffins; Adele's hazelnut coffee needed to be brewed, and…yes she waited for
it! By the time (at least 10 minutes) Adele arrived at the table Tom was having
a great time chatting up two female Police Chiefs. Tom asked one of the Chiefs
if she would arrest this bothersome woman to which she replied “just how long
are you guys married?” Foiled! By noon we were
comfortably seated in Macy's listening to a Wurlitzer Organ recital in the
great hall which has a giant eagle statue; this is the infamous meeting place
for locals – “meet you at Eagle!” Then at 12.30 we embarked
on a tour of the magnificent City Hall which architecturally resembles a French
Chateau it has a huge statue of William Penn on top – the City Hall houses over
400 Courts. After a quick lunch we walked to the Barnes Foundation Art Museum
which houses the largest collections of Renoir in the world; Dr. Barnes was a
patron of Renoir and started his vast collection well before Renoir was well
known. The museum has an eclectic collection of art and artifacts all displayed
exactly as Dr. Barnes had them in his home. By the time we finished
studying the art it was time to return to Carole and Fred's where we discovered
that he had progressed to using a walking stick to get around.
The weather was
warm and sunny in the middle of the day but cold at night. We had autumn colors
all around us as we walked around the countryside where Carole and Fred live -
it is lovely here. We like really Philadelphia; it’s a lovely historical city.
Friday, November 1, 2013
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